NEVADA is without doubt the most
desolate state in the US, consisting largely
of endless tracts of bleak, empty desert.
Its flat sagebrush plains are cut
intermittently by angular mountain ranges,
and the lack of rainfall or fertile soil has
ensured its maintenance as untouched
wilderness. Apart from the huge acreages
given over to mining and to grazing cattle
and sheep, much of Nevada is under the
control of the
military , who use it
to test aircraft and weapons systems,
including Stealth fighters and atomic bombs.
Dozens of intriguing small communities are
scattered around the state, some showing
signs of strong Basque influence. Many more
are decrepit roadside ghost towns, often
little more than a
gas-station-cum-general-store, flanked by a
saloon and perhaps a brothel - Nevada is the
only US state not to have outlawed
prostitution, though it is illegal in Las Vegas.
Though millions of people pass through on
their way to and from California, there's
only one real reason why anyone ever visits
Nevada, and that is to gamble : as
soon as you cross the state border, you'll
be attacked by a 24-hour onslaught of neon
signs and gimmicky architecture, each
advertising the best odds and biggest
jackpots, nowhere more than in the surreal
oasis of Las Vegas . Even the smaller
and more down-to-earth settlements of Reno
and state capital Carson City revolve
around the casino trade. At least the
casinos' energetic pursuit of passing trade
keeps rooms and especially food inexpensive,
so the towns make good places to break a
long journey - and, with Nevada's relaxed
marriage and divorce laws, make or break a
relationship.
