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AUSTRIA
- EATING AND DRINKING |
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Austrian cuisine revolves around
a solid pork- and veal-based
repertoire, of which Wiener
Schnitzel is the most famous
example. Main meals tend to be
meat-heavy affairs, however, and
don't reflect the variety
offered by Austria's main
contribution to global
gastronomic culture - the
consumption of endless varieties
of coffee, cakes and sweets.
Partaking of the calorific
delights in the cake-filled cafés
and coffeehouses is an essential
part of the Austrian experience
- whatever consequences this
might have for your waistline.
The kinds of venues where you
will do your eating and drinking
tend to overlap, making precise
definitions difficult. Many cafés
and coffeehouses offer breakfast
and lunchtime menus alongside
the expected range of drinks and
sweets, while bars and other
night-time drinking venues often
have a wide choice of hot
evening food. Similarly, many of
the less grand restaurants are
good places in which to simply
sit and enjoy a beer.
Breakfasts and snacks
Breakfast ( Frühstuck
) in Austria usually comprises
a pot of tea or coffee,
together with a couple of
rolls with butter and jam -
this is what you'll get if
you're staying in a youth
hostel, private room, pension
or inexpensive hotel. One step
up, a "full continental
breakfast" means you
should get a bit of choice,
perhaps cold meats and cheeses
and, if you're really lucky, a
hot egg-based snack. Most
hotels at mid-range and above
offer a buffet breakfast,
which means you can gorge
yourself on as much cereal,
muesli, eggs, bread, rolls,
cheese and meats as you can
eat. Most cafés will have a
set breakfast menu (again,
usually a pot of coffee and a
couple of bread rolls and/or
pastries) for around öS50-80/?3.63-5.81,
and you can of course order
extra bits and pieces
separately.
If you're self-catering,
then fresh round bread rolls (
Semmeln ) or finger
rolls ( Stangerl )
bought from a supermarket or
bakery ( Bäckerei )
are delicious, as are Kipferl
, croissant-style pastries, or
the slightly sweeter Kolatschen
. Bread ( Brot ) is
taken very seriously in
Austria, and there is usually
a wide variety of lovely
crusty loaves on display in
most bakeries. The standard
loaf is Hausbrot , a
mixture of wheat ( Weizen
) and rye ( Roggen ),
often with caraway ( Kümmel
) or sunflower seeds ( Sonnenblumen
).
Austrian snacks
centre on the ubiquitous Würstelstand
, or sausage stand, which
sells hot sausage ( Wurst
) as well as a few other
things - usually French fries,
soft drinks, canned beer and
occasionally burgers. Numerous
varieties of Wurst are
available: Frankfurter,
Bratwurst (fried sausage)
or Burenwurst (boiled
sausage) are the most common,
but you could also try a Debreziner
, a spicy Hungarian sausage, a
Currywurst , which
speaks for itself, a Käsekrainer
, a sausage filled with blobs
of molten cheese, or a Bosna
, a thin and spicy Balkan
sausage. To accompany your
sausage, you usually get a
roll ( Semmel ) and
some mustard ( Senf ),
which can be either scharf
(hot) or süss (sweet).
Cheap eats
For a cheap sit-down meal,
budget travellers shouldn't
overlook the cheap two-course
set menus ( Mittagsmenü
) offered by many cafés at
lunchtime, usually priced at
under öS100/?7.27. Otherwise,
you could try one of the self-service
restaurants ( Selbstbedienung
) chains like Wienerwald (an
upmarket fried chicken joint)
and Nordsee (serving fish- and
seafood-based snacks), which
you'll find in most major
towns, and which offer a
slightly more central European
alternative to the
international burger chains. Prima
is the biggest chain of
self-service restaurants, with
branches throughout Austria,
and big town-centre department
stores often have a
self-service restaurant of
their own. They're a good
place to get a cheap meal,
although surroundings are
pretty uninspiring, and
they're usually only open in
the daytime, closing at around
6pm. Train station buffets
usually offer reasonably
inexpensive meals of the
schnitzel and chips variety,
although they're not always
the kind of place that you'd
want to sit down in for long.
Billa is the largest
national chain of supermarket
, with outlets in most towns.
However, Austria has yet to
become a fully paid-up member
of the supermarket society,
and most stores are relatively
modest in size, even in large
towns. Nevertheless, since
individually owned specialist
food shops can be pretty thin
on the ground, you'll probably
find yourself relying on
supermarkets if you're
self-catering, or gathering picnic
supplies . If you can,
though, it's worth seeking out
the weekly local market, often
known as a Bauernmarkt
(farmers' market), the best
source of fresh local produce,
and usually a good place for
street snacks. Anker, the
national bakery chain, is
ubiquitous, but its bread and
pastries are reliably good.
Main meals
The main meals of the day can
often be taken in a Kaffeehaus
or cafe, although a
larger choice of dishes will
be offered by a restaurant
or a Gasthof - the
latter traditionally
describing an inn, though
nowadays use of the word
merely implies that the
establishment has a homely,
traditional feel. A Stübe
, or Stüberl
("small room" or
"parlour"), also
denotes an eating venue with a
traditional or cosy
atmosphere. Other words for
restaurant to look out for are
Gasthaus and Gastwirtschaft
. In mountain areas you can
eat in an atmospheric,
pine-clad Hütte , or Almhütte
(literally
"meadow-hut"), which
will offer a modest range of
food and drink to skiers in
winter and walkers in summer.
For many Austrians, lunch (
Mittagessen ) rather
than dinner ( Nachtmahl
) is the day's principal
repast, although this doesn't
usually affect the choice of
food that you'll be offered in
the evening. As a general
rule, restaurants and Gasthöfe
are open for lunch between
noon and 2pm, and for dinner
between 6pm and 9.30pm,
although in cities and tourist
resorts many establishments
remain open until 11pm or
midnight.
Eating out need not be
expensive. Standards are
generally high wherever you
choose to eat, and price
differences from one
establishment to the next are
usually reflected in the
decor, the choice of items on
the menu, and the way in which
the food is presented, rather
than in the quality of
ingredients. A hearty soup
will set you back something in
the region of öS30-50/?2.18-3.63,
wherever you choose to eat. A
main course of the schnitzel
variety (with accompanying veg
or salad) will cost öS90-130/?6.54-9.45
in the more unassuming
restaurants, and will rarely
rise above a ceiling of öS200/?14.54
in plush establishments. The
cheapest main courses on offer
are often the combinations of
cheese and pasta-style noodles
(such as Kasspätzln or
Käsnudl ; see
"What to eat"
section) so characteristic of
Austrian rural cuisine.
They're usually priced
somewhere in the öS80-100/?5.81-7.27
bracket, and even the most
upmarket restaurants will have
at least one basic,
inexpensive dish of this kind
on the menu.
Most places will have a
full menu ( Speise- karte
) of individually priced
dishes, as well as a two- or
three-course set menu
(often chalked up on a board
outside), which is often much
better value. A Mittagsmenü
is a lunchtime set menu, and a
Tagesmenü is a set
menu that's available all day.
Note that you should make a
mental note of any bread or
rolls ( Gepäck )
you consume with your meal, as
the waiter will ask you how
many you've had before totting
up the bill at the end.
Cafes
For urban Austrians, daytime
drinking traditionally centres
around the cafe
or the Kaffeehaus .
There's no real difference
between the two: the name
" Kaffeehaus
" suggests some
historical pedigree - a
relaxing, urban cafe,
furnished with a stock of the
day's newspapers, in the vein
of the grand, atmospheric
Viennese cafes - but cafes,
too, offer essentially the
same range of food and drink.
Both serve alcoholic and soft
drinks, cakes and a wide range
of different coffees (see
"Coffee and cakes").
Places where cakes and
pastries are baked on the
premises often call themselves
a Cafe-Konditorei , or
Kaffee-Konditorei. Many places
also serve substantial lunches
and main evening meals,
although the choice is usually
more limited than in
restaurants. Cafés and
coffeehouses often open as
early as 7am and continue
until early evening; those in
big cities remain open until
11pm or later.
Bars and heurigen
Although some cafés stay open
quite late in the evening,
most night-time drinking
centres on a growing number of
bars and late-night cafés
, where there might be a live
DJ though not necessarily any
dancing. Most stay open until
1-2am; in cities and alpine
resorts opening hours may
extend further, especially on
Friday and Saturday nights. An
alternative place to do your
drinking is in one of
Austria's many Heurigen
, the wine taverns found
predominantly in the former
villages of Vienna's outer
suburbs, on the slopes of the
Wienerwald, and in the many
wine regions of Lower Austria,
Burgenland and Styria. The
word heurig means
"this year's", as it
was here that the vintner
would encourage tastings in
order to try and sell a few
bottles of his (exclusively
white) wine. In the good old
days, people used to bring
their own picnics to consume
and sat on wooden benches in
the vintner's garden whilst
sampling the wine, but
nowadays most Heurigen
provide a self-service
(usually, but not exclusively,
cold) buffet of traditional
peasant fare. Traditionally, a
visit to a Heuriger is
accompanied by Schrammel
musik , sentimental
fiddle, guitar and accordion
music, though today such music
only features at the more
touristy ventures in Vienna.
Real Heurigen are only
permitted to open for 300 days
in any one year, and may only
sell wine and food produced on
the premises. If the Heuriger
is open, the custom is to
display a Buschen , or
bunch of evergreen boughs,
over the entrance, with a sign
telling you it's ausg'stekt
("hung out"). Those
that still abide by the strict
Heurigen laws generally
have a sign saying Buschenschank
, though it has to be said
that some have now attained
restaurant licences in order
to open all year round. A
display board at the centre of
the smaller villages lists
those Heurigen that are
currently open; otherwise the
local tourist office will have
the details.
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