According to its motto,
SOFIA
"grows but does not age" (
raste no ne staree ): a
tribute to the mushrooming suburbs
occupied by one-tenth of Bulgaria's
population, and a cryptic reference
to its ancient origins. Although
various Byzantine ruins and a couple
of mosques attest to a long and
colourful history, little else in
the city is of any real vintage.
Sofia's finest architecture
post-dates Bulgaria's liberation,
when the capital of the infant state
was laid out on a grid pattern in
imitation of Western capitals -
although the peeling stucco of its
turn-of-the-century buildings lends
an air of Balkan dilapidation to the
capital's wide, tree-shaded
boulevards.
The mixture of chaos and decay
which characterizes most of Sofia's
points of arrival makes it an
unwelcoming city for first-time
visitors. However once you've
settled in and begun to explore,
you'll find Sofia surprisingly laid
back for a capital city. Hardly a
great European metropolis brimming
with fine sights, the place comes
into its own on fine spring and
summer days, when the downtown
streets and their pavement cafés
begin to buzz with life. The close
historical relationship between
Bulgaria and Russia reveals itself
in the capital's public buildings,
foremost of which is the Aleksandâr
Nevski church , a magnificent
Byzantine-Muscovite confection. The
neighbouring streets harbour a
modest collection of museums and
galleries - enough to justify a day
or two's sightseeing. Urban pursuits
can be easily combined with the
outdoor recreational possibilities
offered by verdant Mount Vitosha
, just 12km south of the centre.
Also on the fringes of the city, the
medieval frescos at the Boyana
Church and Kremikovtsi
monastery make essential viewing
for anyone interested in Orthodox
art. Sightseeing apart, things can
seem low-key here for those with
sophisticated cosmopolitan tastes:
entertainment for many in Sofia
still revolves around an evening
promenade in one of the city's
parks, followed by a coffee in a
nearby café, and haute cuisine has
never been one of Bulgaria's fortes.
Nightlife is improving, however,
with a host of new bars and clubs
giving the city a raw, hedonistic
edge on spring and summer nights -
plus there's lots of drama and
serious music, especially during the
Sofia Music Weeks , which
take place each June.
