Cambodia was largely out of
bounds to tourists until recently,
but now, areas that were unsafe
because of Khmer Rouge guerrillas
and bandit groups have been returned
to the control of the Cambodian
army, and virtually the whole of the
country has become accessible. For
many travellers, lured by the
prospect of little explored and
unspoilt regions, Cambodia has
become a top destination on
Southeast Asia's otherwise
well-trodden tourist trail.
The Kingdom of Cambodia, with a
population of ten million, occupies
a modest wedge of land, almost
completely hemmed in by its
neighbours, Vietnam, Laos and
Thailand. Its glory days began in
the early ninth century, when the
rival Indian-influenced Chenla
kingdoms united under King
Jayavarman II to form the Khmer
Empire , a powerful and
visionary dynasty, which, at its
peak, stretched from Vietnam in the
east, to China in the north and
Burma in the west. Recent history
has been less kind to the country.
French colonization was followed by
an extended period of turbulence and
instability, culminating in the
devastating Kampuchean holocaust
instigated by Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge
in 1975. The brutal regime lasted
four years before invading
Vietnamese forces reached the
capital in 1979 and overthrew the
Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot and his
supporters fled to the jungle
bordering Thailand, from where they
continued to wage war on successive
governments in Phnom Penh. Pol Pot's
death in 1998 finally signalled the
demise of the Khmer Rouge, and their
subsequent surrender has given
Cambodia a real chance for peace for
the first time in thirty years.
There are indeed many signs that
Cambodia is at last shaking off the
shadows of its past and looking to
the future with a cautious
confidence. International investors
are beginning to back business
ventures, there is increasing
evidence of development and
modernization in urban areas and
foreign aid is flowing in.
Most visitors to Cambodia head
for the stunning Angkor
ruins, a collection of over one
hundred temples dating back to the
ninth century. Once the seat of
power of the Khmer Empire, Angkor is
royal extravagance on a grand scale,
its imposing features enhanced by
the dramatic setting of lush jungle
greenery and verdant fields. The
complex is acknowledged as the most
exquisite example of ancient
architecture in Southeast Asia, and
has been declared a World Heritage
Site by UNESCO.
The flat, sprawling capital of Phnom
Penh is also an alluring
attraction in its own right. Wide,
sweeping boulevards, and elegant, if
neglected, French colonial-style
facades lend the city a romantic
appeal. However, there's also stark
evidence of great poverty, a
reminder that you're visiting one of
the world's poorest countries.
Those enterprising travellers who
look beyond the standard itinerary
of Angkor and Phnom Penh will be
rewarded with a rich variety of
experiences. Miles of unspoilt
beaches and remote islands offer
sandy seclusion along the southern
coastline . Although Sihanoukville
is the main port of call, it's easy
enough to commandeer transport to
nearby hidden coves and offshore
islands, with only the odd fisherman
or smuggler to interrupt your
solitude. Ratanakiri province
in the northeastern corner of the
country, with its hilltribes and
volcanic scenery, is also becoming
increasingly popular with visitors.
Neighbouring Mondolkiri is
less well known, but equally
impressive, offering dramatic
alpinesque woodlands, villages and
mountains. In the central plains, Battambang
, Cambodia's second city, is a
sleepy provincial capital, and the
gateway to the old Khmer Rouge
stronghold of Pailin.
Getting to Cambodia's attractions
can be half the fun.
"Infrastructure" is not a
word well known to the locals and travel
outside the main tourist routes can
be slow and punishing, facilities
less than luxurious.
Cambodia's monsoon climate
creates two distinct seasons. The
southwesterly monsoon from May to
October brings heavy rain, humidity
and strong winds, while the
northeasterly monsoon from November
to April produces dry, hot weather,
with average temperatures rising
from 25ฐC in November to around 32ฐC
in April. The best months to visit
are December and January, as it's
dry and relatively cool, though
Angkor is at its most stunning
during the lush rainy season.
