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CANADA
- EATING AND DRINKING |
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Canada's sheer number of
restaurants, bars, cafés and
fast-food joints is staggering,
but at first sight there's little
to distinguish Canada's mainstream
urban cuisine from that of any
American metropolis: the shopping
malls, main streets and highways
are lined with pan-American food
chains, trying to outdo each other
with their bargains and special
offers.
However, it's easy to leave the
chain restaurants behind for more
interesting options - increasingly
so, as the general standard of
Canadian cooking has improved
dramatically in the last few
years. In the big cities there's a
plethora of ethnic and speciality
restaurants, on either seaboard
the availability of fresh fish and
shellfish enlivens many menus, and
even out in the country - once the
domain of unappetizing diners -
there's a liberal supply of
first-rate, family-run cafés and
restaurants, especially in the
more touristy areas. Non-smokers
may also be relieved to know that
almost every café and restaurant
has a nonsmoking area and
increasing numbers don't allow
smoking at all.
Breakfast
Breakfast is taken very
seriously all over Canada, and
with prices averaging between $5
and $12 it's often the
best-value and most filling meal
of the day. Whether you go to a
café, coffee shop or hotel
snack bar, the breakfast menu,
on offer until around 11am, is a
fairly standard fry-up - eggs in
various guises, ham or bacon,
streaky and fried to a crisp, or
skinless and bland sausages
(except for Nova Scotia's famous
Lunenburg sausage, a hot spicy
version pioneered by settlers
from Europe). Whatever you
order, you nearly always receive
a dollop of fried potatoes
(called hash browns or sometimes
home fries). Other favourite
breakfast options include
English muffins or, in posher
places, bran muffins, a
glutinous fruitcake made with
bran and sugar, and waffles
or pancakes , swamped in
butter with lashings of maple
syrup. Also, because the
breakfast/lunch division is
never hard and fast, mountainous
meaty sandwiches are
common too.
Whatever you eat, you can
wash it down with as much coffee
as you can stomach: for the
price of the first cup, the
waiters/waitresses will - in
most places - keep providing
free refills until you beg them
to stop. The coffee is either regular
or decaf and is nearly
always freshly ground and very
tasty, though lots of the
cheaper places dilute it until
it tastes like dishwater. In the
big cities, look out also for
specialist coffee shops, where
the range of offerings verges on
the bewildering. As a matter of
course, coffee comes with cream
or half-and-half
(half-cream, half-milk) - if you
ask for skimmed milk, you're
often met with looks of
disbelief. Tea , with
either lemon or milk, is also
drunk at breakfast, and the
swisher places emphasize the
English connection by using
imported brands - or at least
brands that sound English.
Lunch and snacks
Between 11.30am and 2.30pm many
big-city restaurants offer
special set menus that
are generally excellent value.
In Chinese and Vietnamese
establishments, for example,
you'll frequently find rice and
noodles, or dim sum feasts for
$7 to $10, and many Japanese
restaurants give you a chance to
eat sushi very reasonably for
under $15. Pizza is also
widely available, from larger
chains like Pizza Hut to
family-owned restaurants and
pavement stalls. Favourites with
white-collar workers are café-restaurants
featuring wholefoods and
vegetarian fare, though few are
nutritionally dogmatic, serving
traditional meat dishes and
sandwiches too; most have an
excellent selection of daily
lunch specials for around $9.
For quick snacks ,
many delis do
ready-cooked food, including a
staggering range of sandwiches
and filled bagels.
Alternatively, shopping malls
sometimes have ethnic
fast-food stalls , a
healthier option (just about)
than the inevitable burger
chains, whose homogenized
products have colonized every
main street in the land.
Regional snacks include fish
and chips , especially in
Newfoundland; Québec's
traditional thick, yellow pea
soup, smoked meat sandwiches and
poutine , fries covered
in melted mozzarella cheese or
cheese curds and gravy; and the
Maritimes' ubiquitous clam
chowder , a creamy shellfish
and potato soup.
Some city bars are
used as much by diners as
drinkers, who turn up in droves
to gorge themselves on the free hors
d'oeuvres laid out between
5pm and 7pm from Monday to
Friday in an attempt to grab
commuters. For the price of a
drink you can stuff yourself
with pasta and chilli. Brunch
is another deal worth looking
out for; a cross between
breakfast and lunch served up in
bars at the weekend from around
11am to 2pm. For a set price
($10 and up) you get a light
meal and a variety of
complimentary cocktails or wine.
Main meals
Largely swamped by the more
fashionable regional-European
and ethnic cuisines, traditional
Canadian cooking relies
mainly on local game and fish,
with less emphasis on vegetables
and salads. In terms of price,
meals for two without wine
average between $25 and $50.
Newfoundland 's staple
food is the cod, usually in the
form of fish and chips,
supplemented by salmon, halibut
and hake and more bizarre dishes
like cod tongues and cheeks,
scruncheons (fried cubes of pork
fat), smoked or pickled caplin
and seal flipper pie. The
island's restaurants are not
usually permitted to sell moose
or seal meat, but many islanders
join in the annual licensed
shoot and, if you befriend a
hunter, you may end up across
the table from a hunk of either
animal.
In the Maritimes ,
lobster is popular everywhere,
whether it's boiled or broiled,
chopped up or whole, as are
oysters, clams, scallops and
herrings either on their own or
in a fish stew or clam chowder. Nova
Scotia is famous for its
blueberries, Solomon Gundy
(marinated herring), Annapolis
Valley apple pie, fat archies (a
Cape Breton molasses cookie) and
rappie pie (an Acadian dish of
meat or fish and potatoes). New
Brunswick is known for its
fiddleheads (fern shoots) and
dulse (edible seaweed). Fish are
Ontario 's most
distinctive offering - though
the pollution of the Great Lakes
has badly affected the
freshwater catch. Try the
whitefish, lake trout, pike and
smelt, but bear in mind that
these are easier to come by in
the north of the province than
in the south. Pork forms a major
part of the Québec diet,
both as a spicy pork pâté
known as creton, and in tourtière,
a minced pork pie. There are
also splendid thick pea and
cabbage soups, beef pies (cipâte),
and all sorts of ways to soak up
maple syrup - trempette is bread
drenched with it and topped with
fresh cream. And, of course, Québec
is renowned for its outstanding
French-style food.
Northern Saskatchewan and
Manitoba are the places to
try fish like the goldeye,
pickerel and Arctic char, as
well as pemmican (a mixture of
dried meat, berries and fat) and
fruit pies containing the
Saskatoon berry. The Arctic
regions feature caribou steak,
and Alberta is also noted for
its beef steaks. Finally, British
Columbia cuisine features
Pacific fish and shellfish of
many different types, from cod,
haddock and salmon to king crab,
oysters and shrimp. Here and
there, there's also the odd
native people's restaurant, most
conspicuously at the Wanuskewin
Heritage Park in Saskatoon,
Saskatchewan, where the
restaurant serves venison,
buffalo and black-husked wild
rice.
Although there are
exceptions, like the Ukrainian
establishments spread across
central Manitoba, the bulk of
Canada's ethnic restaurants
are confined to the cities.
Here, amongst dozens of others,
Japanese restaurants are
fashionable and fairly
expensive; Italian food is
popular and generally cheap,
providing you stick to pizzas
and basic pasta dishes; and
there's the occasional Indian
restaurant, mostly catering for
the inexpensive end of the
market. East European food is a
good, filling standby,
especially in central Canada,
and cheap Chinese restaurants
are common throughout the
country. French food, of course,
is widely available - though,
except in Quebec, it's nearly
always expensive.
Tipping
Almost everywhere you eat or
drink, the service will be fast
and friendly - thanks to the
institution of tipping .
Waiters and bartenders depend on
tips for the bulk of their
earnings and, unless the service
is dreadful, you should top up
your bill by fifteen percent or
more. A refusal to tip is
considered rude and mean in
equal measure. If you're paying
by credit card, there's a space
on the payment slip where you
can add the appropriate tip. If
you don't know how much to tip,
a good bet is to double the tax.
Drinking
Canadian bars, like their
American equivalents, are mostly
long and dimly lit counters with
a few customers perched on
stools gawping at the bartender,
and the rest of the clientele
occupying the surrounding tables
and booths. Yet, despite the
similarity of layout, bars vary
enormously, from the
male-dominated, rough-edged
drinking holes concentrated in
the blue-collar parts of the
cities and the resource towns
(dealing in mining and oil) of
the north, to more fashionable
city establishments that provide
food, live entertainment and an
inspiring range of cocktails.
Indeed, it's often impossible to
separate restaurants from bars -
drinking and eating are no
longer the separate activities
they mostly were up until the
1960s.
The legal drinking age
is 18 in Alberta, Manitoba, Québec,
Northwest Territories,
Saskatchewan and the Yukon and
19 in the rest of the country,
though it's rare for anyone to
have to show ID, except at the
government-run liquor stores
(closed Sun), which exercise a
virtual monopoly on the sale of
alcoholic beverages of all kinds
direct to the public; the main
exception is Québec, where beer
and wine are sold at retail
grocery stores.
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