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CANADA
- GETTING AROUND |
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It's essential to plan carefully
how you'll get around. With VIA
Rail services becoming more
skeletal each year, provincewide
bus companies provide the main
surface links between major
cities, though in isolated areas
you may be thrown back on more
sporadic local services. Flying is
of course more expensive, but
competition in the skies can lead
to some decent bargains.
On most forms of public
transport there are discounted
fares for children under 12,
for youths between 13 and 21, and
over-60s. It has to be said,
however, that things are always
easier if you have a car :
even if a bus can take you to the
general vicinity of a provincial
park, for example, it can prove
impossible to explore the interior
without your own vehicle.
By bus
If you're travelling on your
own, buses are by far the
cheapest way to get around.
Greyhound Canada runs most of
the long-distance buses west of
Toronto, including a service
along the Trans-Canada Highway
from Toronto to Vancouver. The
major centres in the east of the
country are served by a network
of smaller lines and by a wide
range of different companies. Long-distance
buses run to a fairly full
timetable (at least during the
day), stopping only for meal
breaks and driver changeovers.
Nearly all are nonsmoking, have
toilets and coffee-making
facilities and are less
uncomfortable than you might
expect - it's feasible to save
on a night's accommodation by
sleeping on the bus, though you
may not feel up to much the next
day.
Any sizeable community will
have a main bus station, but in
smaller places a gas station or
restaurant will double as the
bus stop and ticket office -
though often they are
inconveniently situated on the
edge of town. Seats can be
reserved but this is rarely
necessary: only those services
between nearby cities like Montréal
and Québec are likely to get
booked out, and even then you'll
have to wait only an hour or so
for the next departure. Out in
the less populated areas, buses
are fairly scarce, sometimes
only appearing once or twice a
week, and here you'll need to
plot your route with care.
Fares are pretty
standard from company to
company: as an example, Toronto
to Winnipeg, a distance of
2100km, costs $167 one-way. The
free Official Canadian Bus
Guide , containing all
Canadian (and northern US) bus timetables
, is produced bimonthly but is
not made readily available to
travellers. Consequently you'll
need to rely on free individual
timetables from the major bus
stations or local tourist
offices. Always double-check
routes and times by phoning the
local terminal (we've included
telephone numbers for most
cities), or the companies. For
Greyhound Canada, reservations
are not necessary; if a bus is
full, another is automatically
laid on. However, an increasing
number of services can make
"seat selection" for a
small fee which guarantees a
specific seat on the first bus
out (useful for window-seat
sightseeing).
By train
The railway may have created
modern Canada but passenger
trains are now few and far
between - at the beginning of
1990 more than half the VIA
Rail services were
eliminated at a stroke and fares
were increased dramatically.
Services are notoriously slow
and delays common as passenger
trains give way to freight,
though the city links between
Montréal and Toronto are still
speedy and efficient. However,
rail travel can still be a very
rewarding experience, especially
on trains with special
"dome cars" that allow
an uninterrupted rooftop view of
the countryside.
One of the saddest losses of
the VIA cutbacks was the
legendary Canadian train which
followed the old Canadian
Pacific lines daily from Montréal
to Vancouver. Today's Canadian
departs three times a week from
Toronto and uses the more
northerly old Canadian National
lines, through the monotonous
muskeg of northern Ontario,
stopping at Winnipeg, Saskatoon
and Edmonton before hitting
Jasper. However, the scenery
between there and Kamloops, the
last big station before
Vancouver, is some of the
Rockies' best. The trip is
scheduled to take three nights
but usually runs late; it costs
a minimum of $418 per person
one-way in low season, $615 in
high.
The other major VIA trains
still running are the Western
Canada services from
Winnipeg to Churchill, Jasper to
Prince Rupert, and Victoria to
Courtenay; Ontario has
services linking Toronto with
Windsor, Ottawa and Niagara
Falls; Québec has trains
between Montréal and Québec
City - as well as Ottawa; and
the Eastern Canada
network runs between Montréal,
Halifax and the Gaspé.
By air
The complexity of Canada's internal
flight network is immense,
and throughout this guide we
have given indications of which
services are most useful. Now
that Air Canada has bought
Canadian Airlines, it has the
most prolific domestic service,
with planes serving more than
125 destinations, linking up
with numerous minor lines - like
Labrador Airways in Labrador -
to reach the farthest-flung
recesses of Canada. One company
to look out for is Canada 3000,
an economical, international
carrier that also serves
Canada's big cities and links
Whitehorse with Vancouver.
However, no one could pretend
that flying around Canada is, in
general terms at least, a
low-budget option. For special
bargains, look in the travel
sections of local newspapers,
especially on Sundays, or splash
out on one of the many varieties
of airpass
, each of which brings hefty
discounts. If you're set on
exploring the deep north, there
is no alternative to air
transport, as these zones are
unpenetrated by rail line or
road, with a few rare
exceptions, such as Churchill in
Manitoba.
By car
Travelling by car is the
best way to see Canada, even
though a vehicle can be a bit of
a liability in the big cities,
with their stringent parking
areas and rush-hour tailbacks.
Any US and UK national over 21
with a full driving licence is
allowed to drive in Canada,
though rental companies may
refuse to rent to a driver who
has held a full licence for less
than one year, and under-25s
will probably get lumbered with
a higher insurance premium.
Car-rental companies will also
expect you to have a credit
card; if you don't have one they
may let you leave a hefty
deposit (at least $300) but
don't count on it.
Most of Canada's vehicles -
and almost every rental car -
run on unleaded fuel, which is
sold by the litre; prices vary,
but are generally around 70-80¢
per litre. Fuel is
readily available - there are
literally hundreds of gas
stations, though they thin out
markedly in the more remote
regions, where you should
exercise some caution by
checking locally about the
distance to the next one.
Roads, rules and regulations
The best roads for
covering long distances quickly
are the straight and fast
multilane highways that radiate
for some distance from major
population centres. These have a
maximum of six lanes divided by
a central causeway and are
marked on maps with thick lines
and shields that contain the
highway number. Outside
populated areas, highways go
down to one lane each way and,
though paved, the hard shoulder
consists of gravel - which you
must on all accounts avoid
hitting at speed as this will
throw you into a spin, a
potentially lethal experience.
Up in the north and off the
beaten track, highways may be
entirely of gravel - broken
windscreens are an occupational
hazard on some stretches of the
Alaska Highway, for example.
Note also that after rain gravel
and dirt roads are especially
treacherous and indeed if you're
planning a lot of dirt-road
driving, you'd be well advised
to rent a four-wheel-drive. The
Trans-Canada Highway (TCH)
travels from coast to coast and
is marked by maple-leaf signs at
regular intervals along its
length. Different sections of
the TCH do, however, carry
different highway numbers and in
some places the TCH forks to
offer more than one possible
routing. Lesser roads go by a
variety of names - county roads,
provincial routes, rural roads
or forest roads. Out in the
wilds rural and forest roads are
rarely paved.
Canadians drive on the right-hand
side of the road. In most urban
areas streets are arranged
on a grid system, with traffic
lights at most intersections; at
junctions without lights there
will be either yellow triangular
"Yield" signs or red
octagonal "Stop" signs
("Arrêt" in Québec)
at all four corners. In the
latter case, priority is
given to the first car to
arrive, and to the car on the
right if two or more cars arrive
at the same time. Except in Québec,
you can turn right on a red
light if there is no traffic
approaching from the left.
Traffic in both directions must
stop if a yellow school bus is
stationary with its flashing
lights on, as this means
children are getting on or off.
Roundabouts or rotaries are
almost unknown.
Exits on multilane
highways are numbered by the
kilometre distance from the
beginning of the highway, as
opposed to sequentially - thus
exit 55 is 10km after exit 45.
This system works fine, but gets
a little confusing when
junctions are close together and
carry the same number
supplemented by "A",
"B", etc. Rural road
hazards include bears, moose
and other large animals
trundling into the road -
particularly in the summer, and
at dawn and dusk, when the
beasts crash through the
undergrowth onto the highway to
escape the flies, and in spring,
when they are attracted to the
salt on the roads. Warning signs
are posted in the more hazardous
areas. Headlights can dazzle
wild animals and render them
temporarily immobile.
Driving laws are made at
provincial level, but the
uniform maximum speed limit
is 100kph on major highways,
80kph on rural highways and 50
kph or less in built-up areas -
though there has been some
provincial tinkering with the
maximum limit on the highways,
experiments which may result in
permanent change. Canadians have
a justifiable paranoia about
speed traps and the
traffic-control planes that
hover over major highways to
catch offenders - if you see
one, slow down. On-the-spot
fines are standard for speeding
violations, for failing to carry
your licence with you,
and for having anyone on board
who isn't wearing a seat belt
.
Canadian law also requires
that any alcohol be carried
unopened in the boot of the car,
and it can't be stressed enough
that drunk driving is a
very serious offence. Bars in
some provinces now have designated
driver schemes whereby the
driver of a group gives the keys
to the head barperson and is
then given free soft drinks all
night; if the driver is spotted
taking a sip of alcohol, he or
she must pay for all the soft
drinks consumed and leave their
keys in the bar until the
following morning. On the road,
spot checks are frequently
carried out, particularly at the
entrances and exits to towns,
and the police do not need an
excuse to stop you. If you are
over the limit your keys and
licence will be taken away, and
you may end up in jail for a few
days.
In cities parking meters
are commonplace, charging 25¢-$1
or more per hour. Car parks
charge up to $30 a day. If you
park in the wrong place (such as
within 5m of a fire hydrant)
your car will be towed away - if
this happens, the police will
tell you where your car is
impounded and then charge you
upwards of $150 to hand it back.
A minor parking offence will set
you back around $25; clamps are
also routinely used in major
cities, with a fine of between
$100 and $150. Also, when
parking, ensure you park in the
same direction as the traffic
flows.
If you're using your own
vehicle - or borrowing a
friend's - get the appropriate
insurance and make sure you're
covered for free breakdown
service . Your home motoring
organization will issue an
appropriate insurance and
breakdown policy with all the
appropriate documentation. The
Canadian Automobile Association,
Suite 200, 1145 Hunt Club Rd,
Ottawa, ON K1V 0Y3 (tel
613/820-1890), is the biggest
recovery and repair company in
Canada, and has offices in most
major cities.
By bike
Cyclists are reasonably
well catered for in
environment-friendly Canada:
most cities have cycling lanes
and produce special maps for
cyclists, and long-distance
buses and trains will allow you
to transport your bike, perhaps
for a small fee. The Canadian
Cycling Association (CCA), 1600
James Naismith Drive,
Gloucester, ON K1B 5N4 (tel
613/748-5629, www.canadiancycling.com
), can offer information on
cycling throughout the country
and publishes several books,
including the invaluable Complete
Guide to Cycling in Canada
($24 including postage and
packing). Standard bike-rental
costs are around $15 per day,
plus a sizeable cash sum or a
credit card as deposit; outlets
are listed throughout the Guide.
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