The Marseillais
eat just
as well, if not better, than the
ageing aristos and
skin-stretched celebrities of
the Riviera. Fish and seafood
are the main ingredients, and
the superstar of dishes is the
city's own expensive invention,
bouillabaisse
, a saffron- and garlic-flavoured
fish soup with bits of fish,
croutons and
rouille to
throw in; theories conflict as
to which fish should be included
and where and how they must be
caught, but one essential fish
is the
rascasse or
scorpion fish. The other city
speciality is the less exotic
pieds
et paquets , mutton or lamb
belly and trotters.
Good restaurant
hunting grounds to head for
include cours Julien or place
Jean-Jaurès (international
options), the pedestrian
precinct behind the Vieux Port's
southern quay (a bit more
upmarket and fishy), rue
Pavillon (cheap lunches), the
plage du Prado (glitzy and
pricey) or Le Panier (snacks and
old-time bistrots). Gourmet
palaces lurk close to the
corniche, while stalls on cours
Belsunce sell chips and
sandwiches with meaty fillings
for under 20F/?3.05. Note that
many Marseille restaurants take
long summer breaks.
Cafes and bars
Bar de la Marine , 15 quai Rive
Neuve, 1er. A favourite bar for
Vieux Port lounging and the
inspiration for Pagnol's
celebrated Marseille trilogy of
Marius (1929), Fanny (1931) and
César (1936). Closed Sun. ...
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Restaurants
Les Arcenaulx , 25 cours d'Étienne-d'Orves,
1er (tel 04.91.54.77.06). Superb
food with menus from 135F/?20.59
in an intellectual haunt which
is also a bookshop. Mixed gay
and straight crowd. Closed Sun.
L'Atelier du Chocolat , 18...
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