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FRANCE - TROUBLE AND THE POLICE

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Petty theft is endemic in all the major cities and along the Côte d'Azur. Drivers, particularly with foreign number-plates or in rental cars with Parisian registration, face a high risk of break-ins. Vehicles are rarely stolen, but car radios and luggage make tempting targets.

It obviously makes sense to take the normal precautions : not flashing wads of notes or travellers' cheques around; carrying your bag or wallet securely; never letting cameras and other valuables out of your sight; and parking your car overnight in an attended garage or within sight of a police station. But the best security is having a good insurance policy, keeping a separate record of cheque numbers, credit card numbers and the phone numbers for cancelling them , and the relevant details of all your valuables.

If you need to report a theft , go along to the commissariat de police , where they will fill out a constat de vol . The first thing they'll ask for is your passport, and vehicle documents if relevant. Although the police are not always as co-operative as they might be, it is their duty to assist you if you've lost your passport or all your money.

If you have an accident while driving, you have officially to fill in and sign a constat à l'aimable (jointly agreed statement); car insurers are supposed to give you this with the policy, though in practice few seem to have heard of it. For non-criminal driving offences such as speeding, the police can impose an on-the-spot fine.

People caught smuggling or possessing drugs , even a few grams of marijuana, are liable to find themselves in jail, and consulates will not be sympathetic. This is not to say that hard-drug consumption isn't a visible activity: there are scores of kids dealing in poudre (heroin) in the big French cities and the authorities seem unable to do much about it. As a rule, people are no more nor less paranoid about cannabis busts than they are in the UK or North America.

Should you be arrested on any charge, you have the right to contact your consulate.

Emergency numbers
Fire brigade ( pompiers ) tel 18.

Medical emergencies tel 15.

Police tel 17.

Rape crisis ( SOS Viol ) tel 08.00.05.95.95.

AIDS information (SIDA Info Service) tel 08.00.84.08.00.

All these numbers are free.


The police

The two main types of police - the Police Nationale and the Gendarmerie Nationale - are for all practical purposes indistinguishable. The CRS (Compagnies Républicaines de Sécurité), on the other hand, are an entirely different proposition. They are a mobile force of paramilitary heavies, used to guard sensitive embassies, "control" demonstrations and generally intimidate the populace on those occasions when the public authorities judge that it is stepping out of line. Armed with guns, CS gas and truncheons, they have earned themselves a reputation for brutality over the years, particularly at those moments when the tensions inherent in the long civil war of French politics have reached boiling point. Not quite in the same league, but with an ugly recent history, is the separate Paris police force . This bunch are prone to pulling up "nonconformists" - often just ordinary teenagers and black people - for identity checks. You can be stopped anywhere in France and asked to produce ID. If it happens to you, it's not worth being difficult or facetious. The police can also be rather sensitive on political issues: a few years ago a group of Danish students wearing "Chirac Non!" T-shirts against the French nuclear tests in the Pacific were surrounded on their arrival in France, accompanied in force to their hotel and made to change.

Lastly, in the Alps or Pyrenees, you may come across specialized mountaineering sections of the police force. They are unfailingly helpful, friendly and approachable, providing rescue services and guidance.


Racism in France

Raciacist attitudes in the populace and the police are rife. A survey on French attitudes to race, commissioned by the French government and published in June 1998, resulted in 38 percent of the population declaring themselves racist, double the figures for similar surveys in Britain and Germany, and the Front National , a neo-fascist, racist party, headed by Jean-Marie Le Pen , won fifteen percent of the vote in the last parliamentary elections. Support for the party was highest in Provence and the Cote d'Azur, where by 1997 four cities had Front National mayors. The Front National's alliance with conservatives has led to changes in educational, cultural and sporting and programmes to suit its policies; the party's fundamental priority is the withdrawal of benefits to immigrants who have not yet been granted French citizenship.

However, the mood in France altered after the 1998 World Cup victory of its multicultural team and Le Pen was forced to modify some of his racist statements. Since then the party has fractured and lost popularity (with it and the splinter group rated at about nine percent), so the next round of elections may change the current unpleasant state of affairs.

It will take a long time for the warm glow created by the World Cup to transform France into a racially tolerant country, and for the moment being black, particularly if you are Arab or look as if you might be, makes your chances of avoiding unpleasantness very low. Hotels claiming to be booked up, police demanding your papers and abuse from ordinary people is horribly frequent. In addition, even entering the country can be difficult. Changes in passport regulations have put an end to outright refusal to let some British holiday-makers in, but customs and immigration officers can still be obstructive and malicious. In North African-dominated areas of cities, identity checks by the police are very common and not pleasant. The clampdown on illegal immigration (and much tougher laws) has resulted in a significant increase in police stop-and-search operations. Carrying your passport at all times is a good idea.

If you suffer a racial assault , you're likely to get a much more sympathetic hearing from your consulate than from the police. There are many anti-racism organizations which will offer support (though they may not have English-speakers): Mouvement contre le Racisme et pour l'Amitié entre les Peuples (MRAP) and SOS Racism have offices in most big cities.


Loss or theft of credit cards

If your credit card is lost or stolen you should ring your credit card company to cancel it. Some companies, like Diners' Club in the UK, allow you to reverse the charges; others will pay for the call if you're absolutely desperate. It is very important to cancel cards straight away as purchases can be made without the signature even being glanced at. If you don't have the relevant number to call, contact the French 24-hour lines below; they will speak English.

Access, Mastercard, Eurocard tel 01.45.67.53.53.

Visa tel 01.42.77.11.90.

American Express lost or stolen cardstel 01.47.77.72.00; lost or stolen travellers' cheques tel 08.00.90.86.00.

Diners' Club tel 01.49.06.17.50.

 

 

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