Chaotic, congested and polluted,
GUATEMALA
CITY is in many ways the
antithesis of the rest of the
country. The capital was moved here
in 1776, after the destruction of
Antigua, but the site had been of
importance long before the arrival
of the Spanish. Now the largest city
in Central America, its shapeless
and swelling mass, ringed by
shantytowns, is home to over three
million people - about a quarter of
Guatemala's population - and the
undisputed centre of the country's
politics, power and wealth.
Sprawling across a sweeping
highland basin, surrounded on three
sides by low hills and volcanic
cones, the city has an intensity and
vibrancy that are both its
fascination and its horror, and for
many travellers a trip to the
capital is an exercise in damage
limitation, struggling through a
swirling mass of bus fumes and
crowds. However, after all these
years of neglect and decay, efforts
are being made by a small group of
conservationists to preserve what's
left of the historic centre, Zona
1 , and a smattering of
fashionable new cafés and bars,
popular with students, have opened
in restored buildings the heart of
the city.
Like it or not - and many
travellers don't - Guatemala City is
the crossroads of the country, and
you'll certainly end up here at some
time, if only to hurry between bus
terminals or negotiate a visa
extension. Once you get used to the
pace, it can offer a welcome break
from life on the road, with
cosmopolitan restaurants, cinemas,
shopping plazas, a couple of good
museums and metropolitan culture.
And if you really can't take the
pace, it's easy enough to escape:
buses leave every few minutes, day
and night.
The City
Though few people come to Guatemala
City for the sights, there are some
places which are well worth visiting
while you're here. The Ixchel, Popol
Vuh and Archeological museums are
particularly good; there's the odd
impressive building in ...
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