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MEXICO
- MAIL, PHONES, INTERNET & MEDIA |
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Although on the face of it
Mexico has reasonably
efficient postal and
telephone systems, phoning
home can be a hazardous
business, while packages
have a tendency to go astray
in both directions. One
thing to watch is the
outrageous cost of
international phone calls,
faxes and telegrams - call
collect or use a calling
card wherever possible.
Mail
Mexican postal services ( correos
) are reasonably
efficient. Airmail to the
capital should arrive
within a few days, but it
may take a couple of weeks
to get anywhere at all
remote. Post offices
(generally Mon-Fri
9am-6pm, Sat 9am-noon)
usually offer a poste
restante/general delivery
service: letters should be
addressed to Lista de
Correos at the Correo
Central (main post office)
of any town; all mail that
arrives for the Lista is
put on a list updated
daily and displayed in the
post office, but held for
two weeks only. You may
get around that by sending
it to "Poste Restante"
instead of "Lista de
Correos" and having
letter-writers put
"Favor de retener
hasta la llegada"
(please hold until
arrival) on the envelope;
letters addressed thus
will not appear on the
Lista. Letters are often
filed incorrectly, so you
should have staff check
under all your initials,
preferably use only two
names on the envelope (in
Hispanic countries, the
second of people's three
names, or the third if
they've four names, is the
paternal surname and the
most important, so if
three names are used, your
mail will probably be
filed under the middle
one) and capitalize and
underline your surname. To
collect, you need your
passport or some other
official ID with a
photograph. There is no
fee.
American Express
also operates an efficient
mail collection service,
and has a number of
offices all over Mexico -
most useful in Mexico
City, where the address
for the most central
branch is: c/o American
Express, Reforma 234, Col.
Juarez, México D.F. They
keep letters for a month
and also hold faxes. If
you don't carry their card
or cheques, you have to
pay a fee to collect your
mail, although they don't
always ask.
Sending letters and
cards is also easy enough,
if slow. Anything sent
abroad by air should have
an airmail (por avión)
stamp on it or it is
liable to go surface.
Letters should take around
a week to North America,
two to Europe or
Australasia, but can take
much longer (postcards in
particular are likely to
be slow). Anything at all
important should be taken
to the post office and
preferably registered
rather than dropped in a
mail box, although the new
special airmail boxes in
resorts and big cities are
supposed to be more
reliable than ordinary
ones.
Sending packages
out of the country is
drowned in bureaucracy.
Regulations about the
thickness of brown paper
wrapping and the amount of
string used vary from
state to state, but most
importantly, any package
must be checked by customs
and have its paperwork
stamped by at least three
other departments, which
may take a while. Take
your package (unsealed) to
any post office and
they'll set you on your
way. Many stores will send
your purchases home for
you, which is a great deal
easier. Within the
country, you can send a
package by bus if there is
someone to collect it at
the other end.
Telegram offices
(Telegrafos) are
frequently in the same
building as the post
office. The service is
super-efficient, but
international ones are
very expensive, even if
you use the cheaper
overnight service. In most
cases, you can get across
a short message for less
by phone or fax.
Phones
Local phone calls
in Mexico are cheap, and
some hotels will let you
call locally for free.
Coin-operated public
phones, rapidly
disappearing, also charge
very little for local
calls. Internal long-distance
calls are best made
with a phonecard. These
are available from
telephone offices and
stores near phones that
use them (especially in
bus and train stations,
airports and major
resorts). Many newer
public phones say they
accept credit cards; in
practice, however, they
often don't.
Slightly more expensive
are casetas de teléfono
, phone offices where
someone will make the
connection for you. There
are lots of them, as many
Mexicans don't have phones
of their own: they can be
simply shops or bars with
public phones, indicated
by a phone sign outside,
in which case you may only
be allowed to make local
calls, but many are
specialist phone and fax
places displaying a
blue-and-white Larga
Distancia
(long-distance) sign.
You're connected by an
operator who presents you
with a bill afterwards -
once connected, the cost
can usually be seen
clicking up on a meter.
There are scores of
competing companies, and
the new ones, like
Computel, tend to be
better; many take credit
cards. Prices vary, so if
you're making lots of
calls it may be worth
checking a few out. There
are casetas at just about
every bus station and
airport.
Wherever you make them
from, international
calls are fabulously
expensive - using a
phonecard is probably the
cheapest option, though
even the highest
denomination ones won't
last long; next best rates
are from a caseta (though
costs vary more than you'd
expect, so shop around);
calling from a hotel is
very extravagant indeed.
Charges vary a great deal,
but typical caseta prices
are US$3 a minute to call
the US, £4 a minute to
the UK. If you plan to
make international calls,
by far the best plan is to
arm yourself in advance
with a charge card or
calling card that can be
used in Mexico; you'll be
connected to an
English-speaking operator
and will be billed at home
at a rate that is
predictable (if still
high). You should be able
to get through to the
toll-free numbers from any
working public phone.
Next best is to call
collect ( por
cobrar ). In theory
you should be able to make
an international collect
call from any public
phone, by dialling the
international operator (tel
09) or getting in touch
with the person-to-person
direct dial numbers we've
listed, though it can be
hard to get through. At a
caseta there may be a
charge for making the
connection, even if you
don't get through, and a
hotel is liable to make an
even bigger charge.
Faxes can be sent from
(and received at) many
long-distance telephone
casetas: again the cost is
likely to be astronomical.
The Internet
The Internet is
booming in Mexico - most
urban school children are
computer-literate and
public access facilities
are springing up all over
the place. Internet cafés
are easy to find in all
the larger cities and the
level of service is
usually excellent,
although servers tend to
crash with greater
frequency than they do at
home. In smaller towns and
villages, such facilities
are still rare. Prices
start at around US$1 per
hour and can be inflated
to five times that amount
in touristy areas. If you
are in such an area, look
for cheaper Internet cafés
around the town centre
that are frequented by the
locals and avoid those in
the luxury hotel zones.
Internet facilities in
large cities are usually
open from early morning
until late at night, but
in smaller towns they have
shorter opening hours and
close altogether at
weekends.
The media
Pretty much anywhere with
a significant
English-speaking presence,
you'll be able to seek out
copies of Mexico City's English-language
daily The News , a
frumpy, uninspiringly-written,
US-oriented organ. There
are also free bulletins in
English that can be picked
up in Mexico City and
anywhere with a sizeable
tourist population -
either in large hotels or
from the tourist office -
and Time and Newsweek
are widely available, too.
Few domestic
newspapers carry much
foreign news, and what
there is mainly Latin
American; they are often
lurid scandal sheets, full
of violent crime depicted
in full colour. Each state
has its own press,
however, and they do vary:
while most are little more
than government
mouthpieces, others can be
surprisingly independent.
Probably the best national
paper, if you read
Spanish, is the new Reforma
, which although in its
infancy has already
established an excellent
reputation for its
independence and political
objectivity. Also worth a
read is La Jornada
, which with its
unashamedly left-wing
agenda, is quite daringly
critical of government
policy, especially in
Chiapas, and whose
journalists regularly face
death threats as a result.
As the press has gradually
been asserting its
independence since 1995,
subjects such as human
rights, corruption and
drug trafficking are
increasingly being
tackled, but journalists
face great danger if they
speak out, not only from
shady government groups
but also from the drug
traffickers. In 1997 for
example, three journalists
were murdered and five
abducted; many more were
victims of lawsuits under
Mexico's punitive
defamation laws.
On Mexican TV
you can watch any number
of US shows dubbed into
Spanish - it's most
bizarre to be walking
through some shantytown as
the strains of the Dynasty
theme tune come floating
across the air.
Far and away the most
popular programmes are the
telenovelas - soap
operas that dominate the
screens from 6pm to 10pm
and pull in audiences of
millions. Each episode
seems to take melodrama to
new heights, with nonstop
action and emotions
hammed-up to the maximum
for the riveted fans. Plot
lines are like national
news while telenovela
stars become major
celebrities, despite their
ludicrously over-the-top
acting styles.
Cable and satellite
are now widespread, and
even quite downmarket
hotels offer numerous
channels, many of them
American.
Radio stations
in the capital and
Guadalajara (among others)
have programmes in English
for a couple of hours each
day, and in many places US
broadcasts can also be
picked up. The BBC World
Service in English can be
picked up by radios with
short wave on 5975kHz in
the 49m band, especially
in the evening; on
15,220kHz in the 25m band,
especially in the morning;
and on 17,840kHz,
especially in the
afternoon. Other possible
frequencies include:
6135kHz, 6175kHz, 6195kHz,
9590kHz and 9895kHz. The
Voice of America
broadcasts on 1530kHz,
1580kHz, 5995kHz, 6130kHz,
9455kHz and 13,470kHz.
The world service
website at www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice
lists all the world
service frequencies around
the world.
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