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GERMANY
- EATING |
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German food is, as a rule, both good
value and of high quality. However,
it does help if you share the
national penchant for solid, fatty
food accompanied by compensatingly
healthy fresh vegetables and salad.
The pig is the staple element of the
German menu - it's prepared in
umpteen different ways, and just
about every part of it is eaten. It
also forms the main ingredient for
sausages, which are not only the
most popular snack, but are regarded
as serious culinary fare - in
Bavaria, there are even specialized Wurstküchen
(sausage kitchens) which have gained
Michelin ratings.
Breakfast
The vast majority of German hotels
and guesthouses, and all youth
hostels, include breakfast in the
price of their accommodation.
Although some places go in for the
spartan French affair of rolls,
jam and coffee, the normal German
breakfast lies midway between this
and the elaborate
Scandinavian-style cold table, but
the latter is catching on,
particularly in middle- and
upper-range hotels. Typically,
you'll be offered a small platter
of cold meats (usually
sausage-based) and cheeses
, along with a selection of
marmalades, jams and honey. Muesli
or another cereal is sometimes
included as well. You're generally
given a variety of breads ,
which are among the most
distinctive features of German
cuisine. Both brown and white
rolls are popular; these are often
given a bit of zap by the addition
of a condiment, such as caraway,
coriander, poppy or sesame seeds.
The rich-tasting black rye bread,
known as Pumpernickel, is a
particular national favourite, as
is the salted Brezel, which tastes
nothing like any foreign
imitation. Coffee (which is
normally freshly brewed) is the
usual accompaniment. Drinking
chocolate is a common
alternative, as are both herbal
and plain tea . Tea is
served black, often with optional
lemon, but does not blend well
with German milk. Fruit juice -
almost invariably orange - is
sometimes included as well.
If breakfast isn't included in
your accommodation costs, you can
usually do quite well by going to
a local baker's shop ,
which generally opens from 7am, if
not before. Most chain bakeries
have an area set aside for
breakfast, known as a Stehcafé
(standing café), a practice taken
up by some family establishments
as well. The coffee and chocolate
on offer tend to be of high
quality, and there's the added
bonus of being able to choose from
the freshly made bakery on
display; DM5-6/?2.50-3 should
cover an adequate breakfast.
Snacks and fast food
Just as the English have their
morning and afternoon tea, so the
Germans have Kaffee und Kuchen
(coffee and cakes). Though the
elegant type of café
serving a choice of espresso,
capuccino and mocha to the
accompaniment of cream cakes,
pastries or handmade chocolates is
indelibly associated with Austria,
it's every bit as popular an
institution in Germany. This
hardly constitutes a cheap snack
but is unlikely to be a rip-off -
except in the most obvious tourist
traps. An almost equally
ubiquitous institution is the ice-cream
parlour ( Eiscafé ).
Almost invariably, these are run
by Italian émigrés and offer a
huge range of flavours and
concoctions to choose from, which
can either be eaten on the
premises or taken away.
More substantial food is
available from butchers' shops
. Even in rural areas, you can
generally choose from a variety of
freshly roasted meats to make up a
hot sandwich. It's also worth
going to the open-air markets
which are held anything from once
to six times a week in the central
square of most towns. With a bit
of judicious shopping round the
stalls, you should be able to make
up an irresistible picnic for a
modest outlay. Larger cities tend
to have a daily indoor version of
this, known as the Markthalle
.
The easiest option for a quick
snack, however, is to head for the
ubiquitous Imbiss stands
and shops. In the latter you have
the option of eating in or taking
away; the price is the same. These
indigenous types of snack bar tend
to serve a range of sausages, plus
meatballs, hamburgers and chips;
the better ones have soups,
schnitzels, chops and salads as
well. Spit-roasted chicken is
usually recommendable and very
cheap, at around DM5-6/?2.50-3 for
half a bird. Mustard is usually
available at no extra cost with
all dishes, whereas small
supplements are often levied for
mayonnaise or ketchup. Most Imbiss
places sell beer, but as many are
unlicensed you may be forbidden
from consuming it on the premises.
Among the fast-food chains
, Kochlöffel stands out for
cleanliness and good food. The
speciality here is spit-roasted
chicken; prices compare very
favourably with the many
American-owned hamburger joints.
Another chain with decent food is
Wienerwald, but its menu, set-up
and price structure are more
comparable to a restaurant than a
snack bar. The Bavarian butcher's
chain Vincenz Murr sells full main
courses to be eaten on your feet,
costing DM5-12/?2.50-6; many
smaller concerns throughout the
country offer a similar service.
Virtually the only places outside
northern Germany where you can
regularly find salt-water fish
are the shops of theNordsee chain.
These vary a lot in size and hence
choice, and the pre-prepared
dishes for consumption on the
premises seldom look as appetising
as the fish sold for cooking at
home. Nonetheless, they are
reliable choices for a quick
lunch. By far the most innovative
and original chain is that run by
the Swiss company Mövenpick under
the Restaurant Marché logo. Here,
fresh market ingredients are the
watchwords, whether in the
enormous cold buffet selection
from which you help yourself, or
in the hot grill dishes cooked to
order before your eyes. Because of
the sheer scale of each operation,
they're only to be found in the
centres of major cities.
Ethnic snack bars are
predominantly Italian, Greek or
Turkish. The pizzerias are
a major boon if you're on a tight
budget. Either taking away or
eating standing up, prices start
at around DM5/?2.50 for a simple
tomato and cheese pizza. Most
pizzerias also serve pasta dishes,
though these are usually less of a
bargain. As always, the kebab
houses adapt their technique to
suit the national taste. The Gyros
or Döner is based on real
lamb meat and fat and served in
bread, generally with tsatziki as
a sauce, and costs DM4-6/2-3.
Meals and restaurants
All restaurants display
their menus and prices by the
door, as well as their Ruhetag
, the day they are closed. Hot
meals are usually served
throughout the day, but certainly
where it says durchgehend warme
Küche . The Gaststätte,
Gasthaus, Gasthof, Brauhaus or
Wirtschaft establishments, which
are the nearest equivalents to
old-fashioned English inns, mostly
belong to a brewery and function
as social meeting points, drinking
havens and cheap restaurants
combined. Their style of cuisine
is known as gutbürgerliche
Küche ; this resembles
hearty German home cooking (hence
the comparatively low prices), and
portions are almost invariably
generous. Most of these places
have a hard core of regular
customers who sit at tables marked
Stammtisch ; unless invited
to do so, it's not the done thing
to sit there. However, don't be
surprised if you're expected to
share your table with strangers -
in all but the poshest of
restaurants, customers are often
asked to give up free seats at
their table at busy times. The
bulk of the menu is the same all
day long, though some
establishments offer two- or
three-course lunches at a bargain
price. Standards are
amazingly high: you're far less
likely to be served a dud meal in
any German restaurant than in
almost any other country.
Starters tend to be
fairly unsophisticated - either a
salad, pâté or cold meat dish,
or, more commonly, soup. Choice
for soup is fairly
restricted, and tends to be based
on an adaptation of foreign fare;
prices are usually in the range of
DM4-8/2-4. Among the most popular
are Gulaschsuppe , a
liquidized version of the staple
Magyar dish (despite often being
dignified as "Ungarische",
it's not something a Hungarian
would recognize); Bohnensuppe
, which is often quite spicy, and
derived from the Serbian model;
and Zwiebelsuppe , which is
a direct copy of the famous French
brown-onion soup, usually with
floating cheese and croutons. In
east Germany, you'll also find Soljanka
, a spicy Ukrainian soup with
sliced sausages. More
authentically German are the clear
soups with dumplings, of which the
Bavarian Leberknödelsuppe
is the best known.
Main courses in all
German restaurants are
overwhelmingly based on pork
. As a rule, this is of noticeably
higher quality than in Britain,
and the variety in taste wrought
by using different sauces (it's
quite common to find a choice of
up to twenty different types) and
unexpected parts of the animal
means that the predominance of the
pig is far less tedious than might
be supposed. As an alternative to
the ubiquitous Schnitzel, try Schweinehaxe
or Eisbein , respectively
the grilled (or roasted) and
boiled versions of pig's knuckles.
Sausages regularly feature
on the menu, with distinct
regional varieties.
Whereas a main-course
pork-based dish is likely to cost
DM20/10 or less, one with beef
will cost a fair bit more. As is
the case with snack bars, chicken
dishes are comparatively cheap.
Many restaurants have a game
menu, with more exotic poultry
such as duck or goose, along with
venison, rabbit and hare; prices
then tend to be DM25/12.50 or
more.
Outside northern Germany, where
a wide variety of newly caught
salt-water fish is readily
available, you'll probably have to
be content with fresh-water
varieties if you want to eat fish
- except in June and July, when
restaurants all over the country
offer special menus featuring
young herring ( Matjes ).
Trout is by far the most popular
fresh-water fish, though there's
obviously a greater choice in
places close to lakes and rivers.
Where salt-water fish is generally
available, the unfamiliar rosefish
( Rotbarsch ) - similar in
taste to whiting - is generally
the most reliable. Oddlyenough,
you're far more likely to
encounter a choice of fresh fish
in east Germany, where there
remain many privatized survivors
from the long-established Gastmahl
des Meeres chain.
The main-course price
invariably includes vegetables
. Potatoes are usually sautéed,
puréed or made into a cold salad.
Boiled potatoes, often garnished
with parsley, are increasingly
popular, but baking, mashing and
oven-roasting find little favour. Dumplings
made from potatoes and flour are a
common alternative. Cabbage is the
other popular accompaniment - the
green variety is pickled as Sauerkraut
, whereas the red is normally
cooked with apple as Apfelrotkohl
. Salads of lettuce,
cucumber, beetroot, carrots and
gherkins are often included as a
side-dish. From April to late
June, when asparagus is in
season, many restaurants have a
special menu ( Spargelkarte
) of dishes - both vegetarian and
carnivore - with this vegetable as
a key ingredient. The noodles
known as Spätzle and Maultaschen
are a distinctive component of
Swabian cuisine, occasionally
adopted elsewhere.
Because so many Germans go to
cafés for their daily helping of
cakes, desserts in
restaurants are an anticlimax,
where they exist at all. The
Bavarian Dampfnudel is one
of the few distinctive dishes;
otherwise there's just the usual
selection of fresh and stewed
fruits, cheeses and ice creams.
Germany has a wide variety of ethnic
restaurants . The density of
these is very much in line with
the general Gastarbeiter influx,
and there's a heavy southern
European bias. Of these, the
Italian are generally the best;
there are also plenty offering
Balkan, Greek and Turkish
cuisines. Chinese restaurants are
also ubiquitous and usually very
consistent, with most offering
good-value set lunches. On the
other hand, Indian and Thai food
is often toned down, largely
because few Germans care for hot
spices.
Vegetarian food
Vegetarians will find Germany
less than ideal - most menus are
almost exclusively for carnivores,
and even an innocent-sounding item
like tomato soup might have small
chunks of bacon floating around in
it. However, it's usually easy
enough to find such staples as
salads, omelettes, pancakes, pasta
and pizzas. Most cities also tend to
have at least one specialist
vegetarian and wholefood restaurant,
and these are listed throughout the Guide
. Many have self-service buffets
where you pay for the items chosen
according to their weight.
| Ich
bin Vegetarier |
I
am a vegetarian |
| Haben
Sie etwas ohne Fleisch? |
Do
you have anything without
meat? |
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