For
snacks , the
Ferrara
, just to the left of the
train station in Piazza
Giulio Cesare, and the
Mágico
, Corso Vittorio Emanuele
244, are reliable options
and both also offer bargain
lunches, while you can eat
good
ice cream and
snack lunches including
arancini
at Mazzara , a bar-pasticceria
at Via Magliocco 15 (on the
corner of Piazza Ungheria).
For authentic Sicilian fast
food,
Antica Focacceria
San Francesco , off
Corso Vittorio Emanuele at
Via A. Paternostro 58, is an
old-time place with
marble-topped tables.
Markets
all offer a variety of
typically Sicilian takeaway
food - boiled octopus,
liver-filled bread rolls and
cooked artichokes - as well
as fruit and vegetables.
Best are the Ballarò, in
the Albergheria
, and the Vucciria, off Via
Roma
. And there's an Upim
supermarket
at the corner of Piazza San
Domenico and Via Roma. The
most popular restaurants get
packed at weekends, full of
people intent upon a night
out rather than just a meal.
Recommended restaurant
options range from
"Inexpensive"
(L25,000) to
"Moderate"
(L25,000-40,000),
"Expensive"
(L40,000-70,000) and
"Very Expensive"
(over L70,000) according to
the amount one person might
expect to pay for a full
meal including wine and
cover charge.
Bellini , Piazza
Bellini. The best bet for
alfresco pizzas; outdoor
tables are in the shadow of
La Martorana church. Service
is, however, somewhat
slapdash. Closed Tues.
Moderate.
Caffé d'Oriente ,
Piazza Cancellieri. Hidden
away at the top of Via Celso
(an alley off Via Maqueda
near Corso Vittorio
Emanuiele), this place swims
with North African
atmosphere. Couscous and
other specialities are
served in the square. Closed
Mon. Moderate.
Charleston ,
Piazza Ungheria 30 (tel
091.321.366). For a special
treat try Palermo's most
celebrated high-class
restaurant. Formal and
stylish, it serves exquisite
cuisine, with regular forays
into other Italian regions
to supplement its Sicilian
specialities. Between
mid-June and late September,
the restaurant shifts to the
beach at Mondello
. Reservations advised.
Closed Sun. Very Expensive.
Trattoria-Pizzeria
Enzo , Via Maurolico
17/19. The city's best
bargain for three-course
meals - hefty portions and
daft prices. Closed Fri.
Inexpensive.
Pizzeria Italia ,
Via Orologio 54 (opposite
Teatro Mássimo). The best
place in town for pizzas,
attracting large queues.
Closed lunchtime except Sun
& also all day Mon from
Oct to May. Inexpensive.
Peppino , Piazza
Castelnuovo 49. A full
restaurant menu is offered
alongside some good pizzas.
It's touristy, but in a good
location. Closed Wed &
Aug Moderate.
Trattoria dal Pompiere
, Via Bara Olivella 107
(opposite Teatro Mássimo).
It's a bit seedy, but the
pizzas are spot on.
Inexpensive.
Primavera , Piazza
Bologni 4. Close to the
cathedral with outdoor
seating, this is a popular
trattoria with home-style
cooking. Closed Mon.
Moderate.
Santandrea ,
Piazza Sant'Andrea (tel
091.334.999). Chic and
popular restaurant a stone's
throw from Piazza San
Domenico and the Vucciria
market. There are no menus,
dishes are seasonal and
generally delicious. Book
early to eat alfresco.
Closed Tues & Jan.
Expensive.
Stella , Via
Alloro 104. Seafood pasta
and grilled fish served in
the lovely courtyard of this
little restaurant in La
Kalsa. Closed Sun & Mon
lunch in summer, Sun lunch
& Mon in winter.
Moderate.
