The
Siena Palio (
www.comune.siena.it/palioprova
) is the most
spectacular festival
event in Italy: a
twice-yearly bareback
horse race around the
Campo, preceded by days
of preparation, medieval
pageantry and chicanery.
Only ten of the
contrade
can take part in any one
race; these are chosen
by lot, and their horses
and jockeys are also
assigned at random. The
only rule is that riders
cannot interfere with
each others' reins.
Otherwise, anything
goes: each
contrada
has a traditional rival,
and ensuring that it
loses is as important as
winning oneself. Jockeys
may be bribed to throw
the race or whip a rival
or a rival's horse;
contrade
have been known to drug
horses and even to
ambush a jockey on his
way to the race. This is
primarily a show for the
Sienese; for visitors,
in fact, the
undercurrent of
brutality and the
bragging, days-long
celebration of victory
can be quite a shock.
The race has been
held since at least the
thirteenth century.
Originally it followed a
circuit through the
town, but since the
sixteenth century it has
consisted of three laps
of the Campo ,
around a track covered
with sand and padded
with mattresses to
minimize injury to
riders and horses
(though this does occur,
and the Palio is a
passionate subject for
animal-rights
supporters). There are
normally two Palios a
year, with the following
build-up:
June 29/August 13
: The year's horses are
presented in the morning
at the town hall and
drawn by lot. At 7.15pm
the first trial race is
held in the Campo.
June 30/August 14
: Further trial races at
9am and 7.45pm.
July 1/August 15
: Two more trial races
at 9am and 7.45pm,
followed by a street
banquet in each of the contrade
.
July 2/August 16
: The day of the Palio
opens with a final trial
at 9am. In the early
afternoon each contrada
takes its horse to be
blessed in its church
(it's a good omen if the
horse shits). At around
5pm the town hall bell
begins to ring and
riders and comparse
- equerries, ensigns,
pages and drummers in
medieval costume -
proceed to the Campo for
a display of
flag-twirling and other
pageantry. The race
itself begins at 7.45pm
on July 2, or 7pm on
August 16, and lasts
little more than ninety
seconds. There's no PA
system to tell you
what's going on. At the
start (in the northwest
corner of the Campo) all
the horses except one
are penned between two
ropes; the free one
charges the group from
behind, when its rivals
least expect it, and the
race is on. It's a
hectic and violent
spectacle; a horse that
throws its rider is
still eligible to win.
The jockeys don't stop
at the finishing line
but keep going at top
speed out of the Campo,
pursued by a frenzied
mass of supporters. The palio
- a silk banner - is
subsequently presented
to the winner.
There are viciously
expensive stands for
dignitaries and the rich
(booked months ahead),
but most spectators
crowd for free into the
centre of the Campo. For
the best view ,
you need to have found a
position on the inner
rail by 2pm (ideally at
the start/finish line),
but be prepared to stand
your ground; people keep
pouring in right up
until a few minutes
before the race, and the
swell of the crowd can
be quite overwhelming.
Toilets, shade and
refreshments are
minimal, and you won't
be able to leave the
Campo until at least
8.30pm. Hotel rooms
are extremely difficult
to find, and if you
haven't booked, reckon
on either staying up all
night or travelling in
from a neighbouring
town. The races are
shown live on national
TV and repeated
endlessly all evening.
All year round,
Cinema Moderno on Piazza
Tolomei screens a
twenty-minute film
explaining the history
and drama of the race,
dubbed into various
languages (Mon-Sat, in
English on the half-hour
9.30am-5.30pm;
L10,000/?5.16).
