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ITALY
- GETTING AROUND |
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The easiest way of travelling
around Italy is by train. The
Italian train system is one of
the least expensive in Europe,
reasonably comprehensive, and,
in the north of the country at
least, very efficient - and is
far preferable over long
distances to the fragmented,
localized and sometimes
grindingly slow bus service.
Local buses, though, can be
very efficient, and where it
is actually a better idea to
take a bus we've said as much
in the text. Planes are
expensive and are best
reserved for longer journeys
where time is tight. Ferries
ply to all the Italian
islands, and also serve
international routes to
Greece, Albania, Croatia,
Malta, Yugoslavia, Corsica and
Tunisia
. We've detailed train, bus
and ferry frequencies in the
"Travel Details"
section at the end of each
section of the Guide: note
that these refer to regular
working-day schedules, (ie
Monday to Saturday); services
may be much reduced or even
non-existent on Sundays.
Trains
Operated by Italian State
Railways (Ferrovie dello
Stato, or FS), there are
seven types of train in
Italy. At the top of the
range are the " Pendolino
" (CiS) and "Eurostar
Italia" (ES), an
Intercity service; in first
class your ticket includes
newspapers and a meal;
reservations are included in
the ticket price. Eurocity
trains connect the major
Italian cities with centres
such as Paris, Vienna,
Hamburg and Barcelona, while
Intercity trains link the
major Italian centres;
reservations are advised on
both of these services (and
are sometimes compulsory
anyway) and a supplement in
the region of thirty percent
of the ordinary fare is
payable. (Make sure you pay
your supplement before
getting on board; otherwise
you'll have to cough up a
far bigger surcharge to the
conductor.) Diretto,
Espresso and Interregionale
trains are the
common-or-garden
long-distance expresses,
calling only at larger
stations; and lastly there
are the Regionale
services, which stop at
every place with a
population higher than zero
(and on which smoking is not
allowed). For information on
trains call 1478.88.088, or
visit the useful Web site at
www.fs-on-line.com .
In addition to the routes
operated by FS, there are a
number of privately run
lines, using separate
stations though charging
similar fares. Where they're
worth using, these are
detailed in the text.
Buses
Trains don't go everywhere
and sooner or later you'll
have to use regional
buses ( autobus
). Almost everywhere is
connected by some kind of
bus service, but in
out-of-the-way places
schedules can be sketchy and
are drastically reduced -
sometimes non-existent - at
weekends, especially on
Sundays, something you need
to watch out for on the
timetable. Bear in mind also
that in rural areas
schedules are often designed
with the working and/or
school day in mind - meaning
a frighteningly early start
if you want to catch that
day's one bus out of town,
and occasionally a complete
absence of services during
school holidays.
There isn't a national bus
company, although a few
companies do operate
services beyond their own
immediate area. Bus
terminals can be
anywhere in larger towns,
though often they're
sensibly placed next door to
the train station; wherever
possible we've detailed
their whereabouts in the
text, but if you're not sure
ask for directions to the autostazione
. In smaller towns and
villages, most buses pull in
at the central piazza. Timetables
are worth picking up if you
can find one, from the local
company's office, bus
stations or on the bus. Buy tickets
immediately before you
travel from the bus station
ticket office, or on the bus
itself; on longer hauls you
can try to buy them in
advance direct from the bus
company, but seat
reservations are not
normally possible. If you
want to get off, ask posso
scéndere?; "the
next stop" is la próssima
fermata .
City buses are
always cheap, usually
costing a flat fare of
between £1000/?0.52 and £2000/?1.03;
it's normally a bit cheaper
down south. Invariably you
need a ticket before you get
on the bus and once you've
bought your ticket it is
only valid for about an
hour; within that time,
however, you can use it on
as many journeys as you
like. Tickets are
available from a variety of
sources, commonly newsagents
and tobacconists, but also
from any shop displaying the
biglietti symbol,
including many campsite
shops and hotel front desks.
Once on board, you must
cancel your ticket in the
machine at the back of the
bus. The whole system is
based on trust, though in
most cities checks for
fare-dodging are regularly
made, and hefty spot-fines
are levied against
offenders.
Planes
ATI, the domestic arm of
Alitalia, operate flights
all over Italy. However,
it's only worth taking a
plane within Italy if you
want to cover a large
distance quickly: ordinary
prices are quite high,
pricier than even the most
expensive express train.
As an example of ordinary
one-way fares, Venice-Rome
will cost from around £250,000/?129.11,
Milan-Naples about £300,000/?154.94,
though a limited number of
cheaper seats are available
on each flight, these tend
to sell out fairly quickly
on popular routes. If you
book a flight from London to
Italy with Alitalia you
qualify for their Visit
Italy Pass , which gives
you three internal flights
for £80 - a bargain if
you're making long hops from
north to south.
Ferries and hydrofoils
Italy has a well-developed
network of ferries
and hydrofoils
operated by a number of
different private companies.
Large car ferries connect
the major islands of
Sardinia and Sicily with the
mainland ports of Genoa,
Livorno, La Spezia,
Civitavecchia, Fiumicino and
Naples, while the smaller
island groupings - the
Tremiti islands, the Bay of
Naples islands, the Pontine
islands - are usually linked
to a number of nearby
mainland towns. Fares are
reasonable, although on some
of the more popular services
- to Sardinia, certainly -
you should book well in
advance in summer,
especially if you're taking
a vehicle across. Remember,
too, that frequencies are
drastically reduced outside
the summer months, and some
services stop altogether.
You'll find a broad guide to
journey times and
frequencies in the
"Travel Details"
sections throughout the
guide; for full up-to-date
schedules, and prices,
contact the local tourist
office.
Driving
Travelling by car in
Italy is relatively
painless, though cities can
be hard work. The roads are
good, the motorway, or autostrada
network very comprehensive,
and the notorious Italian
drivers rather less erratic
than their reputation
suggests - though their
regard for the rules of the
road is sometimes lax to say
the least. The best plan is
to avoid driving in cities
as much as possible; the
congestion, proliferation of
complex one-way systems and
occasional incidents of
naked aggression can make it
a nightmare.
Parking is very
often a headache too. If you
get fed up of driving around
and settle for a space in a zona
di rimozione (tow-away
zone), don't expect your car
to be there. A handy gadget
to have is a small
clock-like dial which you
set and stick in the
windscreen, to indicate when
you parked and that you're
still within the allowed
limit: rental cars generally
come equipped with these,
and some tourist offices
have them too. Parking at
night is easier than during
the day, but make sure you
are not parked in a street
that turns into a market in
the morning. Increasing
numbers of cities operate a
colour-coded parking scheme:
blue zone parking
spaces (delineated by a blue
line) usually have a maximum
stay of one or two hours;
they cost around £1000-1500/0.52-0.78
per hour (pay at meters or
to attendants) but are
sometimes free between 1 and
3pm and on Sundays. White-zone
spaces (white lines) are
free and unlimited in some
cities, but reserved for
residents in other cities; yellow-zone
spaces are almost always
reserved for residents. Note
that walled towns which
exclude cars often allow
tourists to drive into the
city to drop off baggage at
a hotel. Car parks, often
small enclosed garages, are
universally expensive,
costing £25,000-35,000/12.91-18.08
a day in big cities; be
aware that it's not unknown
for hotels to state that
they have parking and then
direct you to the nearest
paying garage.
Most motorways are
toll-roads . Take a
ticket as you come on and
pay on exit; in automatic
booths the amount due is
flashed up on a screen in
front of you. Major credit
cards are accepted; follow
the "Viacard"
sign. Rates aren't
especially high but they can
mount up on a long journey:
as a general rule, you'll
pay around £35,000/8.08
driving a small car from
Rome to Florence. Since
other roads can be
frustratingly slow, tolls
are well worth it over long
distances. Petrol per
litre costs around £2200/1.12
for four-star and £2100/1.08
for unleaded; for unleaded
petrol, look for the sign
"Senza Piombo".
As regards documentation
, if you're bringing your
own car you need a valid
driving licence plus an
international green card of
insurance, and an international
driving permit if you're
a non-EU licence holder. In
Australia these are
available from state
motoring organization
offices in major towns and
cities; in New Zealand
contact your local
Automobile Association
office. In North America get
in touch with the American
Automobile Association ( www.aaa.com
), the Canadian Automobile
Association ( www.caa.ca
), or your local branch for
details of the procedure.
It's compulsory to carry
your car documents and
passport while you're
driving, and you may be
required to present them if
stopped by the police - not
an uncommon occurrence.
Rules of the road
are straightforward: drive
on the right; at junctions,
where there's any ambiguity,
give precedence to vehicles
coming from the right;
observe the speed limits -
50kph in built-up areas,
110kph on country roads,
130kph on motorways (for
camper vans, these limits
are reduced to 50kph, 80kph
and 100kph respectively);
and don't drink and drive.
Roundabouts can be tricky
until you get the hang of
them as cars entering the
larger ones have right of
way, unlike smaller ones, on
which you give way to the
right.
If you break down
, dial 116 at the nearest
phone and tell the operator
where you are, the type of
car and your registration
number: the nearest office
of the Automobile Club
d'Italia (ACI), Via Marsala
8, 00185 Rome (tel 803.116
for 24hr assistance), the
Italian national motoring
organization, will be
informed and they'll send
someone out to fix your car
- although it's not a free
service and can work out
very expensive if you need a
tow. For peace of mind, you
might prefer to join the ACI
outright, and so qualify for
their discounted repairs
scheme (alternatively it
might be easier to arrange
cover with a motoring
organization in your home
country before you leave).
Any ACI office in Italy can
tell you where to get spare
parts for your
particular car.
Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking ( autostop
) is moderately possible in
Italy, especially in the
north, but as elsewhere in
Europe, is generally
inadvisable. If you're
determined, remember that
hitching on motorways is
illegal, eliciting an
on-the-spot fine; stand on a
slip-road or at one of the
service areas. Bear in mind
also that you should never
hitch alone - this
applies particularly to
women in the south. Always
ask where the car is headed
( Dov'è diretto? )
before you commit yourself,
and if you want to get out
say Mi fa scéndere .
Cycling and motorbiking
Cycling is seen as
more of a sport than a way
of getting around in much of
Italy, but as well as racing
clubs on the move you'll see
mountain bikes, touring
cycles laden with panniers,
and people of all ages on
shopping bikes, often with a
toddler balanced on the
cross-bar. Italians in small
towns and villages are
welcoming to cyclists, and
hotels and hostels will take
your bike in overnight for
safekeeping. Although
there's usually a good cycle
shop in most small towns,
tyres and wheels for touring
bikes (700mm x 28 or 30mm)
are hard to come by. On the
islands, in the mountains,
in major resorts and larger
cities it's usually possible
to rent a bike, but
generally facilities for
this are few and far
between. In the UK, the
Cyclists' Touring Club (Cotterell
House, 69 Meadrow, Godalming,
Surrey GU7 3HS; tel
01483/417 217) can provide
members with advice and help
on planning a tour.
An alternative is to tour
by motorbike , though
again there are relatively
few places to rent one. Mopeds
and scooters , on the
other hand, are relatively
easy to find: everyone in
Italy, from kids to
grannies, rides one of
these, and, although they're
not really built for any
kind of long-distance
travel, for shooting around
towns and islands they're
ideal. We've detailed
outlets in the text; roughly
speaking you should expect
to pay up to £50,000/25.82
a day for a machine. Crash
helmets are compulsory,
though in the south at least
it's a law that seems to be
largely ignored.
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